THE JOB SEEMED SIMPLE AT FIRST

I was to be the eyes and ears on the street in Paris for my boss, a writer who had collaborated with Wes Anderson set-builders, shared cafe tables with Catherine Deneuve, and interviewed Parisian Burlesque dancers. Though, at 8 1/2 months pregnant, she struggled to keep her finger on the pulse and could no longer slink unnoticed through secret passageways to discover underground artists and hidden gems or report back to her many loyal readers about new wine bars, brocantes, and the latest renovations on a centuries-old museum.

Hired as an office assistant, Vanessa quickly realized my penchant for writing and passion for hospitality. I became one of her go-to food and travel writers. I would report from wine bars in Paris, espresso counters in Milan, raclette stalls in the Alps, beaches in Southern France, and fish markets in Portugal.

When I returned to Maine after a year’s sojourn in Paris, I wrote about Montreal, Miami, and New Mexico. When Vanessa began her third book in the bestselling Don’t Be a Tourist series, now focusing on London, she knew who to ask for a keen editing and proofreading eye. See that project here!

You’ve made it all the way to the Arctic Circle–what next? This frozen world might seem ethereally silent, but we’ve uncovered some secrets hiding in the permafrost. Bundle up!

Longyearbyen is Svalbard’s most populated (pop. 2,368), and the world’s most Northern settlement, so that’s where all the action is.

Where to Stay

There are some Airbnb options, only about 15 for the whole settlement! We suggest one of the following hotel options, it can help to have a local around to show you the ropes of North Pole living.

How about this minimalist boutique hotel inspired by the global seed vault hiding deep in the permafrost of Svalbard? The Global Seed Vault is not open for visitors, but you can join organized trips with guides that will take you close to the entrance.

Or for a more budget-friendly option, this historical stay in old coal miner’s housing that boasts views over the wild arctic landscape–walking distance from downtown, this hotel, with it’s huge common spaces and large cozy bar, feels more like a hostel–with the benefit of private rooms. It’s a good starting point for outdoor activities across the glaciers.

Longyearbyen a little too crowded for you? Try this even more remote outpost, a renovated radio station on the edge of the Arctic sea. Only accessible by dogsled or snowmobile in winter, or by boat in summer–this is the best option if you want to hike around a glacier all day, pop into the sauna with a beer and watch polar bears wander past your window.

Eating and Drinking

One of Norway’s finest dining establishments is tucked away in Svalbard. Trade your snowboots for heels and head over to Huset. It’s the place to go to for fine Nordic cuisine, and a taste of local flavors. They also offer one of Scandinavia’s largest wine cellars!

Stationen is another option for traditional Norwegian food as well as some more familiar international favorites.

Okay to be fair, we haven’t tried the highly recommended Svalbard Reindeer from Funktionærmessen, so we’re really just the messengers here. But this local gem has been rated top of the town by locals for a few years in a row, so it’s a can’t miss.

Seeing and Doing

We’re assuming you’ve come all the way to the Svalbard Archipelago because you’ve got the itch for some true wilderness exploration. The best way to see the archipelago and its wildlife is by boat and snowmobile. Here are some options for safely exploring the glacial environment.

Expedition cruises circumnavigate the Svalbard archipelago and offer breathtaking views of glaciers and wildlife. There are lots of options for short trips around the archipelago in inflatable boats that allow you to get up close and personal with wildlife.

You could embark on the world’s northernmost fjord cruise to Pyramiden – the Soviet ghost town in the High North. We’ve covered this in a little more depth here.

Is seeing a family of walruses sunning themselves on an ice floe on your bucket list? Say no more. How about exploring massive ice caves? We’ve got that too.

Seasick? Try a snowmobile safari to a remote hunting villa. Or say “mush!” and try your hand at dog-sledding!

You can take a snowmobile expedition to the forgotten Russian village of Barentsburg, where the colors and architecture is joltingly different from the Norwegian minimalism of Longyearbyen.

Experience what they call “Arctic silence” as the Northern Lights dance above you on this midnight expedition.